Men's Suits

Monday, May 30, 2005

Suit For Job

The interview is, without a doubt, the time to make the very best possible impression you can make. This is a situation that calls for a serious business outfit. You, of course, want to be perceived as “serious” about the job, the company and the work you will be doing. You may be applying for a “casual dress” job, but the interview is always dress up! You will be trying to convince the person interviewing you that with your serious, conservative clothing - you are the type of person who will fit in at the company, will not “rock the boat”, or call unnecessary attention to yourself (team player). That’s the reason for conservative clothes and a reason to avoid fashion statements. Clothing is an expression of your respect and consideration for the situation. Candidates who ignore the importance of “Dressing to Impress” cannot be serious about the job in the minds of most interviewers. Interviewers expect interviewees to look a certain way so disappointing them at first sight is the “kiss of death”. You will need to look “right” to a stranger who is making an important evaluation of you within 30 seconds of meeting you. And since 90% of you is covered by clothing (hide those tattoos!) the clothing choices you make can have a significant impact, but can be used to your advantage. Most recruiters or personnel executives realize if you’re just starting your career you are on a limited clothing budget, but they will expect clean, appropriate clothing that fits with the style of the company where you are interviewing. In this competitive age, average doesn’t get you anywhere. To be successful you have to look the part. Don’t kid yourself that having a good degree, innovative ideas, enthusiasm, motivation and a great personality doesn’t mean that an appropriate appearance is of secondary importance. If you did not have the first qualities you would not have been invited to interview with the rest of the candidates.
Tip for the Future: After you get the job, dress for the position several levels higher (dress like your boss’s boss). If you want a promotion you must look like you deserve it and can fit into the post.

Some Specifics on What To Wear:

1.Wear a suit (it’s more serious than a sport coat).
2.Best colors are Navy or Charcoal Gray Single Breasted suit
3.Button your suit when you enter the interview office. You may unbutton it when you sit down. Button it back up when you stand to leave. Always leave the bottom button unbuttoned.

4.White shirt with a straight point collar. Only long sleeve please. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.

Note: Black vs. Navy For men black is not usually considered appropriate for business (social, funerals - yes). Navy is the dominate power color. Recently this has been challenged by female executives wearing black since black is such a powerful color.

There is a “rule” that in serious business dress you wear a minimum of one pattern and two solids. (the elements are your suit, shirt and tie). Men look great in tuxedos which are all solids! So the recommendation for interviewing is a solid color suit and shirt and a patterned tie. Loud shirts or ties will detract from one’s character and bearing.

Ties: Best choices are solid, stripes, or small patterns and an excellent color is burgundy or another serious color (avoid pink or yellow). Even pattern ties should be limited to a maximum of three colors. Small patterns in a tie are associated with the upper middle class and that is usually the group to which your interviewer belongs. Repp ties (stripes) are acceptable to pretty much everyone. Save the expensive “hip” ties for your try at glamorous creative jobs.
Suits: You can wear the same suit for subsequent interviews if you change the tie.
Tie length:The tie should be long enough to reach your belt buckle, and don’t forget the all important dimple! (the indentation under the knot).
Socks: should match your suit and not allow any skin to show when you cross your legs.
Trousers: should be long enough to cover your socks, and cuffs are a mark of a sophisticated businessman.
Belts:Leather belts with quiet, small belt buckles.
Shoes: One of the most important fashion factors, they are a strong statement of personality and executives (men and women!) notice shoes.

Grooming - Tips
1.No cologne (especially on your right hand, it rubs off when you shake hands)
2.Do check your breath.
3.Always have clean nails.
4.Never chew a gum (also a great tip for after you get the job)
5·Make sure you have a nice pen and carry it in the inside jacket pocket (not the shirt pocket).
6·Name tags go on the right (easier to read when you shake hands) although most people stick them on the left.
7.Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases a feeling of accessibility. So short hair for power, long hair for friendliness.


We remain with regards,
E-tailors at www.mycustomtailor.com

Tuesday, May 17, 2005

About Socks

The first thing people notice about you, is your face. The second is your shoes (remember the term “well-heeled”), and what’s right next to your shoes??? Look down. Socks!! Socks (called hosiery in finer men’s stores) protect your feet from rubbing against your shoes, keep your feet warm, and provide another style element in your wardrobe.

Foot Notes:

The word “sock” is derived from the Latin soccus, the Old English socc and the Middle English word socke. The “soccus” was a shoe worn by Roman comic actors. The Middle English socke meant a low shoe or slipper and later a knitted foot covering sometimes extending to the knee. “Hose” came from the Old English and Old High German word hosa, meaning leg covering. By 1583 the word "stocking" was used to describe a covering for the feet and legs. Stocking came from Middle English stok or stokke, meaning leg covering, from Old English stocc, tree trunk. A tree trunk isn’t too far from the shape of a human leg. The word evolved into “stock”, used to mean the covering for a leg. Upper stocks were breeches and netherstocks were the lower coverings or stockings. A pair of socks is referred to in the plural just like trousers. Coordination (for dress and casual):
Socks should match the color of your trousers not your shoes. Socks should be an extension of the trousers in color tone. They can be slightly darker than your trouser color. This gives an uninterrupted visual line from your waist to your shoes. Otherwise an observer's eye stops at your ankle; not an area we necessarily want to emphasize. You can use a secondary color in the sock (patterns, etc.) to match a tie, pocket square or shirt color. A burgundy tie for example with a touch of burgundy in your sock can be a great look. But no matter what kind of sock you're wearing, you have to be careful how you show them off. When you are walking or standing, the only way anyone should see your socks is if your trousers are too short. Obviously, guys in gyms don't have to sweat this detail, and if you're wearing shorts it doesn't apply, but otherwise your trousers should always be long enough to break on your shoes and cover your socks. One of the worst wardrobe gaffes you can make is to show skin at the ankle thus pulling the sock up to fashion prominence.

Here are the three categories of men's socks:

1. DRESS SOCKS. Rule of thumb: The dressier the situation, the darker the socks. In addition to being a dark color, dress socks are usually made from a fine fabric such as silk, although wool and cotton socks in a thin fabric are also appropriate. Some socks may also contain a percentage of Nylon for fit, durability and smooth appearance. It was the Victorians who insisted that men should wear dark socks. After Rev. William Lee of Nottinghamshire invented a machine to knit socks in 1589, all kinds of colors were worn. But the nineteenth century saw a return to more somber hues. Sock decoration became popular again after WWI, when shoes replaced ankle boots. Socks could again be seen, and an embroidered ankle decoration known as "clocks" became hot fashion stuff! The length of dress socks is more commonly over-the-calf (the longest available).

Weaves
Plain -- with no texture, it’s the most conservative
Ribbed – woven with raised vertical ribs
Cable -- a raised rib that intertwines.

2. CASUAL SOCKS. These are the socks you can wear in a wide range of situations -- whether you're wearing chinos, slacks or jeans. The rule still applies for matching socks with trousers, but with casual socks you can get into more color, pattern and texture. Heavier weight socks are perfectly okay in casual circumstances. For length, you can go for a mid-calf -- also known as crew socks. Just make sure your trousers fit properly so you don’t flash any leg skin when you sit down. Pattern. Socks can be any pattern imaginable – plaids, checks, dots, and stripes. The more pattern the more casual. Some Scotch for your ankle A note about Argyle. It’s a sporty multicolored diamond pattern reportedly first sold in the USA by Brooks Brothers in 1949 when the company president, John Clark Wood, noticed a Scottish golfer wearing them. The distinctive diamond pattern is derived form the original hosiery worn with Scottish tartans (plaids). They were cut from the same cloth as the kilt, but on the bias so that the squares on the kilt became diamonds on the stocking. The socks are not related to the clan Argyll (note the different spelling). Be wary of wearing dress socks with more casual outfits. Take it from Dashiell Hammett. Here's a clothing note from The Glass Key:

"He was looking at the blond man's outstretched ankles. He said, 'You oughtn't to wear silk stocks with tweeds.' Madvig raised a leg straight out to look at the ankle. 'No? I like the feel of silk.' Then lay off tweeds.' "

3. ATHLETIC SOCKS. Athletic socks are about the weight of casual socks, but they usually have a cushioned-sole or some other feature specific to the sport for which they were designed. Usually, they're white or white with colored stripes at top or with a logo. Athletic socks are mostly cotton, a natural fiber that lets your foot breathe and wicks away moisture. High tech fabrics may be incorporated into socks to provide superior wicking properties, warmth, and blister avoidance. Powder tip: If you use talc in your shoe, make sure it's in the shoe and not in your sock. Putting powder in your socks traps the moisture there.
Most Athletic socks are crew or mid-calf length, however for certain sports like running, an anklet (the shortest) is available. In other situations -- playing soccer, for instance -- over-the-calf is de rigueur.

Sock Care:

Machine wash in cold or warm water is fine. Remember socks take a beating, so don't expect them to last forever. Wash athletic socks in hot water to make sure you get the stains and smell out! Tip: When you buy a pair of socks get two or three pair of the same style and color. When the sock monster, who hides in the dryer and eats socks, consumes one of yours, you’ll still have others to match.

Fit:

There is such a thing as sock size! Really! Most men’s hose say “one size fits all” on the package thanks to the addition of some stretchy fabric like Nylon, but your real sock size is 1 ½ larger than your shoe size. If you wear a 9 shoe your socks should be size 10 ½. To ascertain sock quality and comfort, look for a flat seam across the toe. Go ahead, sock it to ‘em!


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